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26-07-2007, 04:12 PM
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treating blight soil
My outside tomatoes have blight now!!!!!!!
I intend moving the greenhouse to the spot they are growing in. I will grow some tomatoes in the GH next year. So what should I do with the soil, is there someway I can sterilise it? Many thanks, Sandra 
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29-07-2007, 01:42 PM
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My greenhouse was looking great, but just recently my tomatoes have gone down hill rapidly!!!
Theirs still fruit (some have brown patches) and a few flowers are still growing. The leaves however are drying our and looking very grey. Everything else in the GH seems to be ok. I'm sure its not a watering issue and the GH door is open during the day so l don't think its over heating either. Could this be blight - I don't really know what the first signs are.. Be grateful of any advise...... Leisa
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29-07-2007, 02:55 PM
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Hi mrs potato head, great name by the way!
It sounds like blight! Mine started in the GH and now I have it in the garden too.I posted some photos at the end of which were photos of the blight in my GH! Its on the roses with herbs thread. I have removed all damaged leaves and fruit, that was a while ago now and the rest of the plants seem to be ok. Give it a go you have nothing to loose! Unfortunately the toms in the garden are beyond saving, so sad! Good luck, Sandra
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05-08-2007, 10:17 AM
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Stanhol - not sure how long the blight spores can last but I would think you need to look at some sort of sterilisation fro the ground you are putting the greenhouse on.
Jeyes fluid, if it is still available, would do the job or a good bonfire! Sounds daft, but a good bonfire will bake the soil and kill anything (and I mean anything) in the top couple of inches of soil. Obviously do it before you put the greenhouse up, you won't have any glass otherwise! Terry
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01-09-2007, 09:17 PM
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Blight spores don't survive the winter on the ground. They do survive on volunteer potatoes left in the ground. The following year the volunteer potatoes grow into plants and the blight spores are then blown on to healthy plants.
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02-09-2007, 10:42 AM
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Really? Interesting! I thought the spores could survive, so if everyone would clear their ground and remove the spuds which might become volunteers we could eradicate blight!
Or have I missed something? Everyones ability to clean the ground I suppose 
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02-09-2007, 07:08 PM
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Tpeers I am not an expert it is what I have read on different sites. Blight spores need something to live on to survive the winter. I can understand how the blight can strike again the following year on an allotment site if people don't remove all the infected potatoes but I can't understand how it can suddenly strike in a kitchen garden that had no blight the previous year.
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12-09-2007, 03:55 PM
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Just to add my tuppenceworth, I too have heard that blight needs a host to survive so have removed all my blighted toms from my garden patch and dug up the potatoes. I'm still worried that it may strike next year from something I've left though.
 BTW, the spores are airborn (rather like mould spores) so the wind can take them for miles which is why it's probably blown into our gardens. I'm off to make my first batch of Tomato soup this year now....... bought them from the supermarket the other day..... ooooh it was painful.
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12-09-2007, 07:45 PM
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I used something called Bordeaux Mixture on my toms as soon as I spotted the first signs of blight. My toms are now cropping very well
 Its a fungicide and I intend to use it on the soil in my PT just in case.
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12-09-2007, 08:16 PM
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I tried it on a recommendation and thankfully it worked on the toms, the fruit on the bottom vines were were going a nasty colour and dropping off and the leaves were all spotted. The plants managed to recover thankfully. Its a bit like using blue calomine lotion and it gets everywhere lol
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13-09-2007, 08:57 AM
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That is interesting J-Lo, I was beginning to get worried because my greenhouse hasn't been erected yet and I was already worrying about next years tomatoes.
Does anyone know much about Bordeaux mixture? I'd heard it had been withdrawn from use by organic growers. Bramble, I've got loads of seedlings keep popping up everywhere... even in my front garden!!! I pull them everytime I see one!!!
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13-09-2007, 12:54 PM
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To be quite honest 2Plots I didn't check
I've just had a quick google and it seems that Bordeaux Mixture is used in organice gardening even though it is copper based  I think that in my case there will be plenty left in the soil washed off the toms whilst watering.
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13-09-2007, 04:56 PM
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Bordeaux Mixture is a copper based fungicide - named as such because it is used (or was used) in the Bordeaux region on the grape vines.
Since I never put anything onto the garden and I don't keep up with the 'allowed' list, it is probably illegal due to effectiveness!
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13-09-2007, 05:11 PM
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Hmmmmm...... this trying to be as organic as possible malarky is confusing isn't it? I really want to grow tomatoes in my (as yet erected) new greenhouse but have had blight in the garden this year. I'd love to know others feelings on Bordeaux mixture. Is copper bad? Can it be as bad as the stuff non-organic comercial growers use?
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13-09-2007, 10:07 PM
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Quote:
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22-09-2007, 07:58 PM
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Not for soil, but I visited some totally organic gardens today and had a guided tour by John Harris (known for his moon gardening). Apart from a brilliant afternoon's entertainment, his tip for blight on spuds and toms is to make a dilution of 1 part full cream milk to 9 parts water and start spraying weekly in May taking care to get all the undersides of the leaves and another tip for caterpillars was nettle water in the same dilution
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05-01-2008, 07:02 AM
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..bordeaux mixture
..a mix, in varying proportions, of slaked lime and copper sulphate. as effective as ever against most fungal diseases, but test run it first as some plants and some varieties of some plants are sensitive..
..just using liquid copper sulphate can be effective, it's cheap and usually can be bought by the kilo in chrystal form.. ..only slaked lime isn't bad, and some fungii only react to powdered sulphur.. ..but any of them are best at prevention, so spray fom early till flower set.. ..an idea of value is , the latest chemicals rate 5, for now, older ones 4 (mancozeb ) and lower, Bordeaux around 3, liquid copper and slaked lime 2 ish.. ..spraying is almost weekly, and renew after rain or heavy mist. spores are wind-born, and can winter in the soil, on tools and on canes and trellises, so spray those supports too. Spray the whole plant but concentrate on the under-leaf area and stem
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